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Tuesday, June 25, 2024

Epicuryan: Maude – 11/11/2014

212 S Beverly Dr
Beverly Hills, CA 90212
(310) 859-3418

This marks my third journey to Maude this 12 months and it has been considered one of my most anticipated meal since I first discovered about it. For many who do not know, Maude’s menu is predicated round a theme ingredient that adjustments each month and this month’s ingredient is the always-prized Truffle. Getting a reservation at Maude requires persistence and luck in any month and November was positive to be worse than most. Certainly I known as over 100 occasions with no luck however luckily one other of my eating group managed to make it by way of.

Snack: Cannoli – White Truffle Ricotta, Celeriac, Parmesan
As at all times, the meal at Maude opened with a pair snacks. First up was a mini-cannoli full of creamy ricotta spiked with a smooth perfume of white truffle whereas the shell itself was paying homage to a tuile each by way of texture and its slight sugary sweetness.

Snack: Pop Tart – Onion, Black Truffle
Our second little chunk was an uber-luxe Pop Tart. The chunk has a toasty crumbled texture as one would anticipate in addition to a pungent onion sweetness tinged with truffle.

1: Soup – Potato, Kohlrabi, Escarole
Rene Geoffroy, “Empriente,” 1er Cru, Aÿ, Champagne France 2007
Shifting on to our first course we have been offered with a verdant cream of kohlrabi and escarole over which our servers poured a hearty cream of potato and truffle soup. The truffles come by way of clearly within the wealthy brown potage however the bitter nutty restraint of the greens helped mood the combination.

2: Squash Salad – Persimmon, Truffle French dressing, Brown Butter
Occhipinti, “SP68,” Sicilia, Italy 2012
Squash and salad are two of my least favourite phrases on the subject of meals so I used to be pleasantly stunned by this course. Neither the squash nor the persimmon had the cloying weight that they so typically convey, as a substitute their muted sweetness was an integral aspect grounding the extra astringent greens and the caramelized savor of the brown butter. The SP68 proved to be the perfect pairing of the evening. By itself the wine has a lot of ripe apricot but additionally a whiff of egg-y funk, however when taken with the salad the wine reveals a bit extra expansive and nuanced character

3: Scallop Crudo – Truffle Soil, Beets, Salsify
Dominio do Bebei, “Lapola,” Ribera Sacra, Spain 2011
The phrases scallop crudo are just about at all times music to my ears. Maude’s rendition is much less a real uncooked preparation as it’s seared on one facet. Although nonetheless uncommon I discovered the feel a contact firmer than I would like, the flavour was an outstanding mixture of saline-sweetness and an ideal praise to the tough crunchy soil of truffle and hazelnut. The pickled salsify was an exquisite addition, bringing a crisp succulent brightness whereas the dollops of beet juice added an intense however brief lived sweetness that complimented the dish properly.

4: Hen Egg – Brioche, Creamed Leek, Alba Truffle
Liquid Farm, “White Hill,” Chardonnay, Sta. Rita Hills, CA 2012
Eggs and truffle are a basic no brainer, and certainly the silky yolk coupled with the Alba truffles are a factor of magnificence. Nonetheless Chef Stone does not cease there, resting the yolk on a mattress of soppy creamy leeks and a sprinkled with smoky bits of brioche. The mixture made me consider a truffled bacon vichyssoise and was simply essentially the most overtly scrumptious course of the evening.

5: Turbot – Endive, Spinach, Truffle Coulis
Chenu, “Aux Clous,” 1er Cru, Savigny-les-Beaune, Burgundy, France 2012
The fish course consisted of a superbly seared turbot. The flaky white fish is extra full flavored than most preparations particularly with the earthy truffle imparting a smoky relish. In the meantime the tangy verdant mix provides an additional dimension of countervailing flavors.

6a: Hand-Minimize Tagliatelle – White Alba Truffle
Francesco Rinaldi, “Cannubio,” Barolo, Piemonte, Italy 2007
In a departure from Maude’s regular format, we have been supplied a alternative for our pasta course, both tagliatelle or risotto. Naturally we opted to attempt each and share. First up was a really al dente pasta, dressed desk facet with a beneficiant shaving of white truffle and splash of brown butter, pure easy and scrumptious.

6b: Risotto – White Alba Truffle
Francesco Rinaldi, “Cannubio,” Barolo, Piemonte, Italy 2007
Truffle risotto has lengthy been considered one of my favourite issues on this planet and just like the tagliatelle, the risotto was ready merely actually little greater than a car for having fun with the earthy perfume of the white truffle.

7: Veal Sweetbread – Cauliflower, Sauce Perigord
Francesco Rinaldi, “Cannubio,” Barolo, Piemonte, Italy 2007
The subsequent course was nearly a savory intermezzo. A single tender morsel of offal-y sweetbread served in a earthy candy sauce comprised of cauliflower and black truffle.

8: Venison – Parsnip, Matsutake, Chocolate
B. Levet, “les Journaries,” Côte Rôtie, Rhone, France 2007
The ultimate savory was a superbly crimson slice of seared venison. The meat is sort of lean exhibiting off a steely character. The parsnip and chocolate assist spherical out the meaty heft however are a bit too candy. The sprig of grilled Matsutake proved to be the essential aspect because of a woody musk that ties the plate collectively.

9: Teleme – Walnut, Cranberry, Black Truffle
Our cheese was a light semi-soft selection that served as a superb medium for the crumbled black truffle. The white truffle honey supplies a brighter floral counterpoint to the weighty black truffle whereas the toast provides a a lot wanted textural distinction.

Intermezzo: Sorbet – Yogurt, Apple, Celery
Our first dessert began as a soothing combination of vibrant inexperienced candied apple and tangy yogurt however the celery infused soup provides a cerebral bitter wrinkle to the combination.

Toffee Cake – Alba Truffle Ice Cream, Raisin, Pomegranite
Boxler, “Sommerberg,” Grand Cru, Riesling Vendages Tardives, Alsace, France 2009
Our formal dessert was a wealthy toffee cake soaked in lemon giving the pastry a inbuilt restraint. The truffle vanilla ice cream was equally spectacular suffusing the palate with an excellent truffle and vanilla bouquet.

Mignardises – Palet d’or, White Truffle Truffle, Black Truffle Macaron
Our meal ended with three very good little treats. The Truffle and Macaron have been straightforwardly scrumptious the place the Palet d’or was a bit extra advanced with a buttery puff pastry distinction to the truffled and chocolate.

As anticipated, Chef Stone delivers as soon as once more, placing collectively a menu showcasing the flexibility and vary of truffles. Some programs observe basic approaches that commemorate the chic musk of the prized fungus whereas others take a extra cerebral method utilizing truffles to go with or improve.

Just lately an article got here out about Curtis Stone saying that he opened Maude to show he was a chef and never only a TV persona. Judging from my three experiences I’ve to say mission achieved!

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