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Sunday, June 16, 2024

Epicuryan: Maude – 06/03/2014

212 S Beverly Dr
Beverly Hills, CA 90212
(310) 859-3418

I got here away from my first go to to Maude extraordinarily impressed and with its idea of a month-to-month theme ingredient I knew I might be again sooner fairly than later. Being an absolute fiend for something mushroom, I knew morels was an absolute should for me. Sadly phrase about Maude has unfold quickly and reservations have grow to be nigh-impossible to get. Regardless of calling repeatedly as quickly because the Morel menu was accessible, it was all I might do to get a 5:45 desk for 2.

Popcorn – Australian Winter Truffle
Our one snack for this meal was a dainty bowl of popcorn topped with morel salt that supplied an earthy tone sharpened by the dusting of Australian truffle. I missed the procession of small snacks that preceded my earlier meal at Maude but it surely was exhausting to complain about this earthy buttered popcorn.

Risotto – Citrus Butter, Hen Stuffed Morel
1992 En Tirage Further Brut, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California
Our first correct course was a tiny bowl of risotto, little greater than two mouthfuls actually. Regardless of the small serving dimension, the rice was stuffed with taste wealthy creamy cheese with an ever so slight twinge of acidity. The morel was equally enchanting with a plump meaty texture and a wealthy savor from the bottom hen to go with the morel’s pungent musk. The accompanying wine was a home sparkler which I are likely to shrink back from however this had a little bit of sherry-like oxidation together with ripe apples and a nutty toasty heat.

Kampachi – Avocado, Herbs, Ardour Fruit Snow
2011 Wittmann, Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany
The sashimi course confirmed an intriguing dichotomy between the earth and the fish. The herbs convey a daring flourish of basil whereas the fervour fruit provides a lush juicy chorus. The dusting of togarashi supplies a gradual prickling burn.

Soup – Rosemary, Oyster Crackers
Subsequent up was a gentrified cream of mushroom soup. The thick creamy broth confirmed an earthy flourish and brown butter pungency coupled with a thick velvety texture. The oyster crackers convey a pleasant textural distinction whereas the tiny rosemary sprigs add only a contact of bitter herbaceousness.

Scallop – Wild Garlic, Watermelon Rind, Roe
2011 La Conreria d’Scala Dei, Priorat Les Brugueres, Catalunya, Spain
The scallop was the one actual misstep of the night time. By way of taste the course was spot on, the gently candy savor of the scallop amped up purchase a foam of scallop roe. Equally, the aromatic garlic and vibrant vegetal favas complimented the bivalve superbly. Sadly, for all that the scallop itself was dreadfully overcooked making the feel stringy and rubbery. The wine was a surprisingly properly carried out white Grenache with heavier notes of butterscotch and honey, balanced with enough citrus fruit and minerality.

Duck Egg – Summer time Squash, Horseradish, Smoke
2011 La Conreria d’Scala Dei, Priorat Les Brugueres, Catalunya, Spain
The meal obtained proper again on monitor with this subsequent course however then once more I’ve at all times been a gentle contact for runny egg yolks. This one got here on a mattress of verdant summer season squash puree and was imbued with a smoky taste. The piquant tang of the horseradish was a pleasant counterpoint to the creamy roundedness of the yolk whereas the bits of onion crumble supplied a bacon-bits like savor and texture.

Raviolo – Consommé, Truffle Crumble, Watercress
2009 Passopisciaro, Passopisciaro, Sicily, Italy
The sixth course consisted of a dense meaty raviolo filled with scallop mousseline. The dumpling has a fairly monolithic generic savor however the consomme supplies a pervasive aroma of contemporary earth whereas the bits of crumbled truffle tuilé present each ritzy savor and a contact of aromatic truffles. The leafy watercress provides a targeted bitter austerity that tempers the remainder of the dish.

Pork Stomach – Pickled Morel, Cilantro Jalapeño Puree
2009 Passopisciaro, Passopisciaro, Sicily, Italy
The braised pork stomach was the standout course of the night. The lean meat is tender and succulent whereas the pores and skin has a fatty savor and crisp texture. The gravitas of the pork is lightened significantly each the straightforward but efficient software of pickled greens and morels.

Lamb – Inexperienced Garbanzo, Eggplant, Leek
2011 Rosi Schuster, Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria
Our last savory was a superbly cooked lamb tenderloin. With the barest trace of sport this might have simply handed for beef coupled with a whiff of herbs and mint. The mild savor of the meat made the all of the accompaniments that rather more obvious from the buttery heft of the poached morels, to the pea-like verdance of the garbaznos and the smoky relish from the charred leek and eggplants.

Taleggio – Onion, Charred Peach, Nasturtium
Our cheese course consisted of a gentle ball of creamy melty Taleggio. Regardless of its pretty robust aroma, Taleggio tends to have a light taste in addition to a slight bitterness that went properly with the jammy taste of the charred peaches and the savor of the onion.

Ice Cream Bar – Espresso & Morel
Our pre-dessert consisted of a home made ice cream bar. So far as ice cream bars go these have been chic, good steadiness between chocolate shell and creamy vanilla. The espresso nibs intensify the chocolate’s bitterness and add a pleasant little bit of crunch although the morels did not actually come by means of on this dessert.

Black Forest Ground – Darkish Cherry, Chocolate, Hazelnut
2005 Domaine Piétri-Géraud, Banyuls Cuvée Méditerranée, Languedoc, France
I’ve had loads of mushroom primarily based forest ground savories however this was my first time having a candy model. Certainly the “ground” is made up of dense chocolate cake with bits of cooked bing cherries combined in. Down beneath is a sugary caramel cream whereas the floor additionally confirmed good toasty notes from the crunchy hazelnuts. Traditional flavors served in a enjoyable texturally numerous little bowl.

Mignardises – Tropical Financier, Raspberry & Darkish Chocolate Truffle, Strawberry & Chartreuse Laborious Sweet
Our meal ended with three artistic little treats. First up was a ball tropical “financier” although the dessert lacked the standard form I fairly loved the combination of coconut and pineapple. Subsequent up was a basic raspberry and darkish chocolate concoction tasty however not notably fascinating. Lastly we ended with a tough sweet that confirmed each a contact of berry sweetness and a mild however persistent booziness from the Chartreuse.

Up to now Chef Stone is 2 for two. Regardless of being the primary night time of a brand new menu, the general expertise from the meals to the service was all fairly polished and on level. As was anticipated, the Morel menu was noticeably heavier than the citrus menu. I feel the deeper earthy taste of Morels is much less adaptable than citrus, however Stone integrates the prized fungus into his dishes very successfully. Time and fortune allowing I might love to come back again in direction of the tip of the month to see how the menu has developed.

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