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Monday, June 24, 2024

Epicuryan: L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon

3799 Las Vegas Blvd S
Las Vegas, NV 89109
(702) 891-7358

My first go to to Joel Robuchon in early 2008 stays one in every of my most memorable meals. Since then, I’ve returned to the restaurant twice, however one way or the other by no means made it subsequent door to take a look at their sister restaurant L’Atelier De Joel Robuchon (other than a fast cease for a $33 slider).

L’Atelier, which interprets to work store is one in every of 9 such eating places across the globe, a haute cusine chain if you’ll. The eating places are inclined to share an identical fashion with an open kitchen surrounded by a sushi bar like seating association. Likewise the menu is a little more assorted, that includes a la carte, small tasting parts, prix fixe, and a 10-course menu decouverte.

L’AMUSE-BOUCHE – l’avocat rafraîchi d’une wonderful gelée de pamplemousse à la coriandre
Our amuse actually did its job, tantalizing the palate with recent acidity from the grapefruit with a creeping herbaceous bitterness. Tiny flecks of coriander added short-lived pinpricks of spice whereas the avocado introduced a countervailing creaminess to the fragile gelée

LA SAINT-JACQUES – la noix émincée finement à l’hile vierge acidulée
The scallop dish could not be extra completely different from the course served at L’Atelier’s huge brother. There its all about unabashed butter-laden luxurious. This course takes a extra delicate method with the alabaster slivers coated in a floral fruity combination of lemon and olive oil brightened with a touch of spice and zesty chives.

LE PIQUILLO – à l’aubergine fumée, ventrêche de thon confit
A riff on a well-liked Basque area tapas, this dish drew its inspiration from Spain fairly than France. The attribute smoky vegetal twang of the pepper takes middle stage. Paper skinny toast factors add a lovely crunch to the dish; a pleasant distinction to the tenderness of the pepper. The tuna was a double-edged sword, on one hand I loved the fish’s oily smack, however the texture was a bit dry.

LES CALAMARES – en salade asperge verts et shimeji sur un riz cuit façon sushi
Nicely ready squid generally is a actual deal with and this lived as much as my lofty expectations. The skinny squid “noodles” convey a delicate char-wrapped salinity a pure praise for the packed sushi rice. The salad of recent asparagus provides coloration each actually and figuratively. Taken collectively the dish had a taste paying homage to Chinese language steamed fish, sudden however not disagreeable.

LE FOIE GRAS – crémeux sous une gelée chaude de poule au curcuma
I did not understand simply how a lot I missed foie gras until I tasted it once more. Truly the hen broth custard stood by itself; clear and wealthy with a touch of peppery heat and a silky texture paying homage to chawanmushi. The herbs and greens have been fairly efficient as nicely, their austerity serving to to mood the candy buttery richness of the liver.

LE SAINT PIERRE – ravigoté d’une sauce vierge à la citronnelle
The night’s fish course was a dense filet of John Dory. Browned in a lemongrass olive oil, the Dory had loads of complexity and depth of taste. The finely diced tomatoes added a recent succulence and salsa-like zest.

LA CAILLE – caramélisée et servie avec une purée de pommes de terre
The primary entree selection is a free vary quail. Whereas the chook had a pleasant supple texture the flavour left a lot to be desired. I used to be anticipating the gaminess of the chook to be heightened with a livery twang from the foie. As a substitute the sticky concentrated darkish sauce stole the present rendering the chook into a particularly gentrified teriyaki hen.

LA HAMPE – de boeuf en tranches, échalotes confites et shishitos grillés
The hanger steak was way more spectacular than the quail. The meat has a rough meaty grain and a pronounced beefy twang heightened with aromatics from the roasted shallots. The easy preparation and minimal accompaniments permit the steak to face by itself.

LA FRAISE – Sur une légère ganache au citron rafraichie d’un sorbet a la tomet cerise
Our first dessert mixed ripe strawberries and tart lemon with the savory vegetal notice of tomato. The dessert is additional embellished with bits of toasty crunch and subdued herbs; a combination paying homage to a fruity Bloody Mary.

LA CERISE – sablé de cacahuète au chocolat sur une glace à l’Amarena
The ultimate course on the Menu Decouverte draw’s on a traditional combination of cherry and chocolate. The ripe cherry is straight away obvious within the type of a succulent fruit tinged with medicinal bitterness. The sablé explodes with nutty relish and gives a dry crumbly texture to steadiness the cherry ice cream.

As was to be anticipated, L’Atelier lacks the fomality of its 3-star sibling, however nonetheless gives a top-notch eating expertise. The decor at L’Atelier has a extra dynamic and up to date than the opulent Parisan residence subsequent door. Whereas the bar stools aren’t fairly as snug as overstuffed velvet couches, the hustle and bustle of the open kitchen and horny black/pink decor actually have their charms. Likewise the service at L’Atelier lacks the pomp and solemnity of its huge brother, however that does not imply it is any much less attentive. In reality with the server simply throughout the bar, the expertise is way extra interactive and fewer stilted than the prim extra reserved workers at Joel Robuchon.

Service and decor are simply window dressing for the meals and once more L’Atelier feels extra trendy and kooky. The menu does not have the identical luxurious so do not count on the abundance of truffle or caviar featured on the 16-course Degustation Menu at Joel Robuchon. What L’Atelier does convey to the desk is a lighter menu with extra assorted taste profile fairly than the weightier traditional French fare subsequent door. Whereas L’Atelier’s sophistication and method do not fairly attain the 3-star heights of Joel Robuchon, it’s nonetheless one of many higher spots in Las Vegas.

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